For an avid traveler like me, the first trip of the year is always an eagerly anticipated one, often setting the tone for the rest of the year. Last year we had been to the Rann of Kutch and this year we have started off with Kumarokom – both in some style !!
Kumarokom is not new to both Lipi and me – we had been there in 2003 for a few days in the KTDC property Waterscapes, adjoining the bird sanctuary. It was a memorable trip then but a trifle rushed and a lot of time has passed since then. Therefore, when our upgrading of the Timeshare entitled us to a bonus week which could be taken in the signature property Karma Chakra, I had no hesitation in making the decision.
A little about Kumarokom and the Vembanad lake will be useful for readers who are not completely aware of it. Kerala is a narrow state with an extensive coastline. In several places the sea water comes inland creating a vast system of canals, more popularly known as the backwaters. There are also lakes pretty much adjacent to the sea and almost leading to it. The charm of the backwaters is that you can navigate these on boats and get a slice of the Kerala village life as the boat sails past the inhabitants engaged in their daily work. These boats come in all shapes and sizes – from the humble rowing boat to the shikara type ones and finally the fully loaded House boats which in the local lingo are called Kettuvalams. These are fully functional house boats which can navigate the lakes and canals. They come with air conditioned bedrooms, proper toilets and great cooking arrangements. These house boats have a lot to do with Kerala being an iconic tourist destination – not to forget the beaches, culture and cuisine of course.
The Vembanad lake is the largest fresh water lake in India, if one does not consider the Chilka lake in Orissa for it’s brackish water. It is a vast water body covering an area greater than 2000 sq kms, stretching in length for 93 Kms between Aleppey and Kochi, with a maximum width of 14 kms. If you see it for the first time, you may well mistake it for the sea – such is the vastness of it’s expanse. Kumarokom is really a village in the Kottayam district and has a lot of resorts now, bordering the lake. The nearest town is Kottayam, a rather bustling place, quite different from the idyllic serenity of Kumarokom.
Ok, enough of an introduction then. Our journey started off on 4th February and the availability of a flight to Kochi made it rather easy. A short flight and a car ride for a couple of hours saw us in the resort by 2 pm in the afternoon. The resort is really built on what used to be a wetland before and is right on the Vembanad lake. All the 24 rooms are on one side ensuring that each room has a lake view. The other side has the Reception, Activity center and the restaurant. The swimming pool is in the middle of it and the whole middle section is on stilts with water being there. You get a feeling that you are crossing bridges when you walk from one side of the resort to the other. In all ways, this is a great property and our room was a very nice one too. It had all the amenities and the crowning glory was definitely the spacious balcony which had a great view of the Vembanad lake – we practically woke up each morning with the mist swirling over the vastness of the lake with the birds flying around and swooping down to get an early start for their food.
The best activity in the resort was definitely the sunset which could be observed sitting under a Gazebo, erected strategically at a perfect place. The lawn next had a swing and a hammock, the swimming pool with the deck chairs just behind and the resident house boat of the resort tied nearby. This along with the variety of birds moving around in the evenings, made this an idyllic activity. We spent all our evenings there and though the final moments of the sunset were often obliterated by the clouds, whatever we did get to view was spectacular nonetheless. At night the resort was also lit up beautifully and the lights coming on as darkness engulfed us slowly was rather magical. On a more prosaic note, the restaurant served quite delectable fare – both local cuisine and also some North Indian varieties.
The resort was good enough to just laze around, lie down in the divan provided in the balcony and catch up with some reading while soaking in the sight of the majestic Vembanad lake. To be sure, we did that awhile and I finished the 2 books I had got for the trip. Even managed to do some work done for my current engagement, courtesy the wifi available, which was rather good. But as travelers who are fairly active, we also got to do a lot of other stuff too.
Lipi has a friend in Kollam and she visited us along with her husband, who is in the army, on the Sunday we were there. It was great to meet them and even better that I got some Beer as a gift – saved me a lot of expensive buying at the resort. We went down to a local restaurant and had some authentic Kerala food – Fish thali, Karimeen fry and Prawns Masala. We also repeated lunch there on our last day – this time trying the Karimeen wrapped in a banana leaf along with some Duck Mapaas.
Ferries are a common mode of transport in Kerala waterways and we went in a local ferry one day. It was quite an experience, what with all kinds of local people clambering on board the ferry in their bikes. As the resort house boat was way too expensive we hired one on our own for 3 hours and 3000 Rs another day. It was a great way to spend time on the Vembanad lake, we nearly went close to Aleppey. Just the number of birds we saw – Egrets, Kingfisher, Cormorants, Snake birds, Storks, Robin and many others made it worthwhile. While you are there the peace and serene tranquility is broken only by the chirpings of the birds. One can also go for an overnight trip but as we had experienced it last time, we did not opt for that.
Some word on transportation – autos are available and are the same as everywhere else in India, inasmuch as they will quote their price which is normally high. We also went in a few buses for short distances and once coming back from Kottayam. The service is fairly good but there is not a word of English written on any of the buses so you really have to find out things for yourself from the conductor or fellow passengers. They were normally helpful though, especially the one who directed us in Kottayam.
We had a good visit to the bird sanctuary one morning and though the birds were not seen in great numbers, the walk through the sanctuary was a good one. We also revisited the KTDC resort Waterscapes after all these years and liked what we saw. There was a bird enclosure with a huge Turkey and some Emus there. The buffet breakfast was rather expensive but good otherwise and our appetite was rendered rather keen after the long walk.
Kottayam was another day visit – we had snacks in the Indian Coffee house, which is pretty ubiquitous in most of Kerala towns and also went to the local mall. It was not a big one but had a pretty good collection of clothing for all types and occasion. We did not spend much time there, it looked quite a bustling place with all the normal stuff.
The days kind of flew by and it was soon time to go. Kochi airport was overcrowded and we started missing Kumarokom even while we were in Kerala !! All vacations have to end sometime but the good thing is you can keep the memories and play them in your mind as much as you want. When life really gets busy, and it will this week itself, I will play the mornings and sunsets of Kumarokom in my mind’s eyes.
It will be an almost guaranteed way of seeking some relaxation and busting stress.